S1 / Fit Cut – Moleskine

Moleskin is a cousin of corduroy. They are two ancestral fabrics, generally in cotton, thick and dense, for rustic use. Moleskin is typical of the 19th-century worker and farmer wardrobe. Solid and warm, it has a suede finish on the outside very similar to calf suede or nubuck.

We speak of a chamois surface. It is in a way a cotton flannel. This effect is achieved by special weaving and finishing looms, whose abrasive rollers brush the surface of the fabric. A light fuzz is formed, giving it that soft, smooth feel. This makes moleskin the ideal winter fabric, perfectly matching tweed for example. This great material is however not well known and you have to go to traditional British brands to find clothes cut into it.

The moleskin pants have a fall like no other, thanks to their high weight and density. The initial slight cardboard effect disappears quickly. Moleskin does not distort much and acquires a happy suppleness with time. The pleasure of a fabric made to last and be loved.

We have enjoyed working with Brisbane Moss since the beginning of our trouser adventure. A house with a long-standing reputation, like all our partners. A draper with tradition.

The Moss brothers have been weavers of corduroy and moleskin since the middle of the 19th century. At the turn of the 1900s, by merging with other weavers, they created a fully vertical group including spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment manufacturing and even retailing. In 1970 Moss Brothers bought Brisbane Jones, another local velvet and corduroy manufacturer. In 1983, Brisbane Moss became part of the Chapman Group and launched an ‘on-demand’ stock service which proved particularly successful. Brisbane Moss won the Queen’s Award for Export in 2004 and 2012. These awards demonstrate the quality and global reputation of the clothier. In the future, the challenge will be to create textiles that are better for the planet. Brisbane Moss is already meeting the challenge of sustainability, organic yarns, Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification for dyeing, finishing, factory auditing and recycled packaging. The sustainability challenge continues with targets to reduce the carbon footprint.

A pair of trousers is not just fabric. It’s also a belt lining and pocket lining. And buttons. All Italian.
The waistband lining is made up of three superimposed fabrics. The top band is made of 100% cotton sky blue oxford, the bottom band is made of 100% cotton unbleached and un-dyed twill, both separated by a white viscose poplin anti-slip piping with Scavini embroidery. White topstitching reinforces the assembly. The pocket bottoms are cut from the same unbleached and undyed 100% cotton twill. The absence of dye is the best option from a hypoallergenic point of view. It also allows for relative discretion of the pocket bottoms behind light coloured fabrics.
The waistband lining and the pocket bottoms are prefabricated by the Italian company FVL created in 1990, guaranteeing ISO and GOTS certified quality standards. FVL is particularly involved in the subject of sustainability and ethical and social protocols, with continuous control of the production process and a fast and efficient traceability system.
Finally, for buttons, we don’t go far either, always in Veneto. At Bottonificio Padano, established in 1982. We have chosen to use exclusively corozo, called vegetable ivory, which is natural and biodegradable. In fact, the hard, white, horny albumen of the seed of a tropical American palm tree. Bottonificio Padano aims to eliminate chemical pollutants and use increasingly natural pigments. Since 1982, all the water used in production, including that used for dyeing and tumbling, is purified and reused, in a “closed cycle”, without any discharge into the external environment.

Location: Italy / Naples area

Our development is accompanied by a great awareness of quality, while favoring local production, we have directed our research in Italy during the year 2021. After many months, we found a small traditional workshop south of Naples that is a blessing. Our genius craftsman created his workshop at the age of eighteen, in the year 2000. Before that, his parents had also had their own trouser workshop. His only limitations were the space and the recruitment of seamstresses. Apart from that, what finesse, everything is possible! With our new workshop, we develop our volumes and bring a great craft aesthetic.
We can work in-depth on models and details, far from the large industrial platforms.

A close collaboration that allows us – it’s very nice – to go to Italy from time to time and come back with a head full of new ideas. The keywords of a Scavini pant are now refinement, craftsmanship & localism. A very luxurious pant, cut from Italian or English fabric. The equivalent of the models of great luxury brands.

Cotton does not fear water, so these trousers are designed to be machine-washed. However, to avoid shrinkage of the fabric, do not use programmes that are too hot (above 30°) with excessive spinning (1000+ revolutions), preferring gentler programmes that respect the garment. Do not use a tumble dryer if you do not want to end up with shorts!