S2 / Classic cut – Chino pants

The term chino designates a model of pants, semi-casual, cut almost exclusively in cotton. Beige cotton for military camouflage was discovered in the Philippines during the Spanish-American conflict of 1898. Chinese merchants were selling pairs of pants that the Spanish called “pantalones chinos”, simply Chinese pants. The term passed directly into the English language alongside the term “khaki”.

When the Americans arrive in Europe during the First World War, their use of cotton interests. But it was not until the end of the Second World War and even the 70s that this cotton chino often beige landed massively in Europe, where until today, its interest is not denied. It is as practical and versatile as jeans and can be worn in the working environment without any problem. In addition to the original sand color, it comes in an infinite number of other colors, almond a little gray, navy blue, brown, hazelnut, red, etc. … And old pink as sails from Nantucket. Our 100% piece dyed cotton sheet is lightly emerised on the surface for a soft and pleasant feel, along with a moderate weight.

We have enjoyed working with Brisbane Moss since the beginning of our pants adventure. A company with a long-standing reputation, like all our partners. A weaver with tradition.

The Moss brothers have been weavers of corduroy and moleskin since the middle of the 19th century. At the turn of the 1900s, through mergers with other weavers, they created a fully vertical group including spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment manufacturing and even retailing. In 1970, Moss Brothers acquired Brisbane Jones, another local velvet and corduroy manufacturer. In 1983, Brisbane Moss became part of the Chapman Group and launched an “on-demand” stock service that proved to be particularly successful.

Brisbane Moss won the Queen’s Award for Export in 2004 and 2012. These awards demonstrate the quality and worldwide reputation of the mill. In the future, the challenge will be to create more environmentally friendly textiles. Brisbane Moss is already meeting the challenge of sustainability, organic yarns, Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification for dyeing, finishing, factory auditing and recycled packaging. The sustainability challenge continues with goals to reduce the carbon footprint.

A pair of trousers is not just fabric. It also includes a belt lining, pocket linings, and buttons. And they are all Italian!

The belt lining consists of three layered fabrics. The upper band is made of Oxford cotton, and the lower band is made of undyed ecru cotton, separated by an embroidered anti-slip piping by Scavini. The pocket linings are cut from the same undyed ecru cotton. The absence of dye is the best option from a hypoallergenic perspective. It also allows for a discreet appearance of the pocket linings behind the light-colored fabrics. The belt lining and pocket linings are pre-manufactured by the Italian company FVL, founded in 1990, ensuring ISO and GOTS-certified quality standards. FVL is particularly committed to sustainability and ethical and social protocols, with continuous control of production processes and a fast and efficient traceability system.

As for the buttons, we don’t go far either, still in the Veneto region. We chose to exclusively use corozo buttons, also known as vegetable ivory, which is natural and biodegradable. Corozo is the hard, white albumen found in the seed of a tropical American palm tree. Bottonificio Padano, established in 1982, aims for the elimination of chemical pollutants and the use of increasingly natural pigments. Since 1982, all water used in production, including dyeing and tumbling, is purified and reused in a “closed loop” system, without any discharge into the environment.

Our development is accompanied by a great awareness of quality, while favoring local production, we have directed our research in Italy during the year 2021. After many months, we found a small traditional workshop south of Naples that is a blessing.

Our genius craftsman created his workshop at the age of eighteen, in the year 2000. Before that, his parents had also had their own trouser workshop. His only limitations were the space and the recruitment of seamstresses. Apart from that, what finesse, everything is possible! With our new workshop, we develop our volumes and bring a great craft aesthetic. We can work in-depth on models and details, far from the large industrial platforms.

A close collaboration that allows us – it’s very nice – to go to Italy from time to time and come back with a head full of new ideas. The keywords of a Scavini pant are now refinement, craftsmanship & localism. A very luxurious pant, cut from Italian or English fabric. The equivalent of the models of great luxury brands.