S3 / One Pleat Pants – Heavy Twill Cotton

The term chino designates a model of pants, semi-casual, cut almost exclusively in cotton. Beige cotton of military camouflage, it was discovered in the Philippines during the Spanish-American conflict of 1898. Chinese merchants were selling pairs of pants that the Spanish called “pantalones chinos”, simply Chinese pants. The term passed directly into the English language alongside the term “khaki”. When the Americans arrive in Europe during the First World War, their use of cotton interests. But it was not until the end of the Second World War and even the 70s that this cotton chino often beige landed massively in Europe, where until today, its interest is not denied. It is as practical and versatile as jeans and can be worn in the working environment without any problem. In addition to the original sand color, it comes in an infinite number of other colors, almond a little gray, navy blue, brown, hazelnut, red, etc. … And old pink as sails from Nantucket. For the S3 cut, we opt for a heavy cotton gabardine, allowing to have a good holding of the pleat and a lot of style with little wrinkled effect.

We have enjoyed working with Brisbane Moss since the beginning of our trouser adventure. A house with a long-standing reputation, like all our partners. A draper with tradition.

The Moss brothers have been weavers of corduroy and moleskin since the middle of the 19th century. At the turn of the 1900s, by merging with other weavers, they created a fully vertical group including spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment manufacturing and even retailing. In 1970 Moss Brothers bought Brisbane Jones, another local velvet and corduroy manufacturer. In 1983, Brisbane Moss became part of the Chapman Group and launched an ‘on-demand’ stock service which proved particularly successful. Brisbane Moss won the Queen’s Award for Export in 2004 and 2012. These awards demonstrate the quality and global reputation of the clothier. In the future, the challenge will be to create textiles that are better for the planet. Brisbane Moss is already meeting the challenge of sustainability, organic yarns, Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification for dyeing, finishing, factory auditing and recycled packaging. The sustainability challenge continues with targets to reduce the carbon footprint.

A pair of trousers is not just fabric. It’s also a belt lining and pocket lining. And buttons. All Italian.

The waistband lining is made up of three superimposed fabrics. The top band is made of 100% cotton sky blue oxford, the bottom band is made of 100% cotton unbleached and un-dyed twill, both separated by a white viscose poplin anti-slip piping with Scavini embroidery. White topstitching reinforces the assembly. The pocket bottoms are cut from the same unbleached and undyed 100% cotton twill. The absence of dye is the best option from a hypoallergenic point of view. It also allows for relative discretion of the pocket bottoms behind light coloured fabrics.
The waistband lining and the pocket bottoms are prefabricated by the Italian company FVL created in 1990, guaranteeing ISO and GOTS certified quality standards. FVL is particularly involved in the subject of sustainability and ethical and social protocols, with continuous control of the production process and a fast and efficient traceability system.

Finally, for buttons, we don’t go far either, always in Veneto. At Bottonificio Padano, established in 1982. We have chosen to use exclusively corozo, called vegetable ivory, which is natural and biodegradable. In fact, the hard, white, horny albumen of the seed of a tropical American palm tree. Bottonificio Padano aims to eliminate chemical pollutants and use increasingly natural pigments. Since 1982, all the water used in production, including that used for dyeing and tumbling, is purified and reused, in a “closed cycle”, without any discharge into the external environment.

Location: Italy / Naples area
Our development is accompanied by a great awareness of quality, while favoring local production, we have directed our research in Italy during the year 2021. After many months, we found a small traditional workshop south of Naples that is a blessing. Our genius craftsman created his workshop at the age of eighteen, in the year 2000. Before that, his parents had also had their own trouser workshop. His only limitations were the space and the recruitment of seamstresses. Apart from that, what finesse, everything is possible! With our new workshop, we develop our volumes and bring a great craft aesthetic.
We can work in-depth on models and details, far from the large industrial platforms.
A close collaboration that allows us – it’s very nice – to go to Italy from time to time and come back with a head full of new ideas. The keywords of a Scavini pant are now refinement, craftsmanship & localism. A very luxurious pant, cut from Italian or English fabric. The equivalent of the models of great luxury brands.

Dry cleaning is highly recommended for wool trousers. However, it should not be done often: only once a year, or even less! A simple steam ironing at home or at the dry cleaners is enough in most cases to remove odors, and bacteria and to make the trousers look good again.

To tidy it up? There is nothing better than a hanger with a bar or clip, as we propose in our “Accessories”.

If you don’t have one, no problem! In this case, a simple and clean folding of the pants should be considered. As a precaution, it is recommended not to close the buttons.