S4 / Two Pleats – Saxony Houndstooth

Few fabrics carry as much value and emotion as flannel, with its typically British velvety feel. The word flannel is an old one, coming from the Welsh word “gwlanen”. Technically, it is a sheet whose plain weave is blurred by abrasion of its surface, revealing a light downy covering. In the 19th century, flannel was opposed to the much denser worsted twill and other gabardines. As a result, flannel was considered to be lighter and more breathable, and therefore a summer fabric, which is something to smile about nowadays. As one should never confuse the material and the way of weaving, let us specify that flannel is a way of weaving. And it can be made of various materials, even if it is generally made of wool, or wool & cashmere. You can also find cotton flannel, which is actually quite similar to moleskin. Our elders generally abhor flannel. They have memories of a material that scratched their little boys’ thighs horribly as their mothers wanted to see them well wrapped up. Wool manufacturers have reacted vigorously to avoid artificial materials. No more scratchy wool, hello softness and flexibility. Flannel trousers are still the alpha and omega of every self-respecting wardrobe!

The V.B.C. brand is probably one of the best known in the tailoring world. It stands for quality and durability. A house of tradition that seeks to do well, affordable luxury.

A small document dated 1663 marks the beginning of the Barberis Canonico family’s wool adventure. It describes the sale of a cloth to the Duke of Savoy and the dyer’s skills. This early date makes the clothmaker one of the oldest companies in the world still in business. As such, V.B.C. is a member of the very select Enochian Club. Taking advantage of the industrial revolution, the family developed the wool business. When the first mechanical looms arrived in 1868, all weaving, dyeing, brushing and finishing activities were concentrated in the Pratrivero factory. The arrival of electricity allowed for faster and more regular production. Thanks to the high quality of the fabrics produced, the company began to export successfully throughout the world, not only to Europe, but also to America, the British Raj and even China. In 1936, the Vitale Barberis Canonico brand appeared. Although the 1970s questioned the use of natural materials, the family chose to stay with these fundamentals, a gamble that has been successful for the company. Vitale Barberis Canonico remains faithful to its origins.

A pair of trousers is not just fabric. It’s also a belt lining and pocket lining. And buttons. All Italian.

The waistband lining is made up of three superimposed fabrics. The top band is made of 100% cotton sky blue oxford, the bottom band is made of 100% cotton unbleached and un-dyed twill, both separated by a white viscose poplin anti-slip piping with Scavini embroidery. White topstitching reinforces the assembly. The pocket bottoms are cut from the same unbleached and undyed 100% cotton twill. The absence of dye is the best option from a hypoallergenic point of view. It also allows for relative discretion of the pocket bottoms behind light coloured fabrics.
The waistband lining and the pocket bottoms are prefabricated by the Italian company FVL created in 1990, guaranteeing ISO and GOTS certified quality standards. FVL is particularly involved in the subject of sustainability and ethical and social protocols, with continuous control of the production process and a fast and efficient traceability system.

Finally, for buttons, we don’t go far either, always in Veneto. At Bottonificio Padano, established in 1982. We have chosen to use exclusively corozo, called vegetable ivory, which is natural and biodegradable. In fact, the hard, white, horny albumen of the seed of a tropical American palm tree. Bottonificio Padano aims to eliminate chemical pollutants and use increasingly natural pigments. Since 1982, all the water used in production, including that used for dyeing and tumbling, is purified and reused, in a “closed cycle”, without any discharge into the external environment.

Our development is accompanied by a great awareness of quality, while favoring local production, we have directed our research in Italy during the year 2021. After many months, we found a small traditional workshop south of Naples that is a blessing. Our genius craftsman created his workshop at the age of eighteen, in the year 2000. Before that, his parents had also had their own trouser workshop. His only limitations were the space and the recruitment of seamstresses. Apart from that, what finesse, everything is possible! With our new workshop, we develop our volumes and bring a great craft aesthetic.
We can work in-depth on models and details, far from the large industrial platforms.
A close collaboration that allows us – it’s very nice – to go to Italy from time to time and come back with a head full of new ideas. The keywords of a Scavini pant are now refinement, craftsmanship & localism. A very luxurious pant, cut from Italian or English fabric. The equivalent of the models of great luxury brands.

Dry cleaning is highly recommended for wool trousers. However, it should not be done often: only once a year, or even less! A simple steam ironing at home or at the dry cleaner’s is enough in most cases to remove odours, bacteria and to make the trousers look good again.