The Jacket

Today, much is said about ‘casual’ style — more relaxed compared to the formality of a suit. Paired with cotton chinos, jeans, or wool trousers like flannel, owning one or several jackets is both a pleasure and a practical choice.

Making a Jacket

Buying a ready-to-wear jacket is simple, but exploring the fabric bunches from the mills is a far richer pleasure. Tweed or flannel for winter, wool-linen-silk blends for summer, or the timeless blue blazer for year-round wear — each season has its ideal piece.

We guide you in composing a wardrobe that is both practical and refined.

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Having a Sports Jacket Made

When considering a sports jacket, several questions arise: will it be intended for winter, summer, or mid-season? Fabrics range from heavy 500 g tweeds to airy 240 g summer blends, depending on the seasonality desired.

Then come the patterns, often checks, whether discreet or bold. We take the time to present these options so your choice is both confident and refined.

Checked Flannel Jacket

Summer Jacket in Fresco Wool

Possible Configurations

The true pleasure of a made-to-measure jacket lies in its many configuration possibilities. Starting from a classic base, you can imagine different styles: a one-button shawl or peak lapel for a tuxedo, a two-button notch lapel for a modern look, or three buttons for a more traditional cut. Trends come and go, but a well-made jacket remains timeless.

Then come the details: the gently curved breast pocket, the side pockets, and other finishes to be defined together.

Throughout your appointment, our experts advise and guide you in making the right choices. Discover all available options below.

The Straight-Cut Jacket

It is called straight-cut, though it always features a rounded bottom edge! The English simply call it: single-breasted.

Jacket Style

Three-Button Jacket with Simple Notch Lapel

Timeless Classic!
Jacket Style

Two-Button Jacket with Simple Notch Lapel

The current standard! (Also available in a single-button version)
Jacket Style

Three-Roll-Two Jacket

Also known as the ‘American lapel.’
Jacket Style

Two-Button Jacket with Peak Lapel

Distinctive lapels with real flair! (Also available in a single-button version)
Jacket Style

Two-Button Jacket with Parisian Lapel*

A sharp line, typical of fine tailoring! (*Also available in a three-button version)

The Double-Breasted Jacket

The fronts overlap and there are more buttons. The English call it: double-breasted.

Jacket Style

6x2 Double-Breasted Jacket

Six visible buttons, with two fastening — the standard of the double-breasted jacket.
Jacket Style

6x1 Double-Breasted Jacket

Still six visible buttons, but only one fastening — the elegance of the 1980s.

Jacket Pockets

At the top left of the chest sits the breast pocket, often used to hold a linen or silk pocket square. Below, the side pockets can be made with flaps and welts, or as simple patch pockets.

Side Pockets

Straight Pockets

The classic choice.
Two simple flap pockets — or three, by adding a ‘ticket pocket’ for a touch of English style.
Side Pockets

Slanted Pockets

More “British” in style, slanted pockets are historically considered sportier.
Two flap pockets – or three: a “ticket pocket” can be added to enhance the English character.
Side Pockets

Jetted pockets

The most formal type of pockets.
Whether horizontal or slanted, when made without flaps, the garment is considered more formal.
Side Pockets

Simple patch pockets

Relaxed, in true Italian style.
The presence of a flap gives the jacket a more American touch — think Ivy League style.
Side Pockets

Patch pockets with box pleats

A hunting spirit – or safari, depending on the interpretation. Feel free to ask us: we offer several other pocket styles as well.
Chest Pocket

Classic pocket

The breast pocket is cut in a gently slanted, upward-sweeping rectangular shape with a subtle curve – a style known as the Barchetta, Italian for “little boat.”
Chest Pocket

Patch style

The patch breast pocket, with its elegant rounded shape, pairs harmoniously with the lower patch pockets.

Tweed jacket with pleated patch pockets

Blazer with gold buttons: a timeless classic!

Checked tweed jacket

The jacket’s shoulders

As a general rule, we use minimal shoulder padding in our jackets. The padding is light – approximately 5mm. In the case of a naturally lower shoulder, it’s sometimes possible to add a bit more structure. We can also adjust the armhole depth, creating a higher-cut armhole that fits closely under the arm – upon request.

Sleeve construction

With a pronounced sleeve head

A sleeve construction with heavy padding, creating a strongly pronounced shoulder line.
Typical of high-end tailoring houses such as Cifonelli or Yves Saint Laurent.
Sleeve construction

With a standard sleeve head

The classic construction with a lightly padded, subtly raised sleeve head – known as the cigarette shoulder.
This is the traditional, time-honoured method, using light padding for a refined and balanced silhouette.
Sleeve construction

Unstructured sleeve head

This is the method currently used in ready-to-wear tailoring, commonly referred to as the “round shoulder.”
It provides a clean, structured shoulder line – unlike the softer Neapolitan shoulder – but without the pronounced roping seen in cigarette constructions. It features light padding for subtle structure.
Sleeve construction

Neapolitan shoulder

A construction similar to that of shirts, featuring a felled seam that gives the shoulder a soft, flowing appearance.
As a rule, the Neapolitan shoulder is entirely unpadded, offering exceptional comfort and a natural drape – perfectly in line with today’s taste for relaxed elegance. It captures the effortless style of Italian tailoring.

We offer both the smooth Neapolitan shoulder and the gathered version, with signature shirring at the sleeve head.

The jacket lining

Once the style has been chosen, we’ll then consider together the type of lining to apply inside the jacket. Fully lined, half-lined (with an unlined back), or completely unlined – the choice is yours.

Jacket lining

Full lining

The traditional lining!
Simple, effective, and perfect for keeping warm.
Jacket lining

Half lining

An ideal compromise for warmer days!
The absence of lining in the back provides greatly enhanced breathability.
Jacket lining

Unlined

Absolute lightness!
This construction creates a “scarf-like” jacket – incredibly lightweight and comfortable in warm weather.

Summer jacket in Irish linen

Made-to-measure safari jacket & work jacket

Alongside the traditional jacket, there are also more rugged or utilitarian styles – which we can also craft made-to-measure.

Modern Jacket

Work Jacket

We call this model the “Tybourg”.
It can be made in the fabric of your choice!
Modern Jacket

Safari Jacket

The safari jacket, available made-to-measure and in the fabric of your choice – perfect for both summer and winter!

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