Whipcord & Cavalry Twill: timeless classics of the masculine wardrobe

14 October 2025

This season, we turn our attention to a family of wool fabrics with time-honored weaves that remain as relevant as ever for trousers: complex twills. Whipcords, cavalry twills, Bedford cords, and gabardines — durable yet elegant fabrics.

A quick textile reminder: in classic tailoring, two main types of weaves prevail. Plain weave, where the threads cross simply, one over one. And twill, where the interlacing follows a longer rhythm, creating that distinctive 45° diagonal. Complex twills are a refined variation of this structure, featuring a more pronounced pattern and greater durability.

The best known is undoubtedly cavalry twill, originally used for riding breeches. Its dense, hard-wearing structure makes it particularly suited to trousers exposed to friction. The 70° diagonals, punctuated by small horizontal bars, give it a fabric that is both technical and refined.

Whipcord is recognized by its pronounced oblique ribs, in finer or chunkier gauges, also running at about 70°. In lighter shades, it reveals beautiful heathered nuances, making it a classic that feels both rugged and refined.

Rarer today, Bedford cord has a relief reminiscent of corduroy. Extremely robust (up to 500 g from some mills), it was long used for riding and retains a singular elegance.

Lastly, wool gabardine — a cousin of its cotton counterpart — is distinguished by twill lines that are more steeply angled than a standard twill. Discreet and durable, it even gave its name to the famous “gabardine” coat in everyday language.

These thick, textured fabrics were historically used for breeches and outdoor trousers. Even today, they’re ideal for mid-season and winter: robust, warm, and elegant.

👉 At Scavini, this season we’re offering trousers cut from noble fabrics in the lineage of these great traditions: cavalry twill and whipcord. Fabrics that combine character, comfort, and durability — perfect for building a refined autumn wardrobe.

A pair of brown whipcord trousers pairs beautifully with a tweed jacket, while a grey version complements a flannel blazer effortlessly. Timeless, versatile classics of the masculine wardrobe.

Cette saison, intéressons-nous à une catégorie d’étoffes de laine, aux tissages anciens mais toujours d’actualité pour les pantalons : les serges complexes. Whipcords, cavalry twills, Bedford cords ou encore gabardines… des tissus résistants et élégants.

Petit rappel textile : en matière classique, deux grands types de tissages dominent. La toile, où les fils se croisent de façon simple, un sur deux. Et la serge (ou twill), où l’entrecroisement se fait sur un rythme plus long, créant ce fameux effet de diagonale à 45°. Les serges complexes en sont une déclinaison, avec un dessin plus marqué et une résistance accrue.

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