Wear and care

27 March 2025

Many clients ask me how long a garment should last, and what’s the best way to care for it. Let’s try to bring some clarity to the matter.

First off, jackets and trousers don’t wear out at the same pace. I always recommend having at least one suit per workday—or, ideally, three suits, one blazer, and a sport jacket to rotate pieces more easily. It’s no coincidence that the well-off rarely wear out their clothes: they simply have more of them. In the evening, it’s best to take off your suit and slip into something more casual, like chinos. This helps preserve your trousers from daily wear. The suit should go back on its hanger—a proper, wide hanger, sized to support the shoulders correctly. Always empty the pockets. Now and then, a quick brushing will do. Personally, I fold my trousers over the hanger bar, carefully lining up the creases. You can also hang them by the hems or place them in a trouser press. I have one on my valet stand—non-heated—it’s decent, but not life-changing.

Now, suits wear out for several reasons. One of the main culprits? Fabrics that are too lightweight. The so-called Kleenex suits. It’s not entirely the brands’ fault—they’re buying their cloth from mills. But brands are caught in a bind, pressured between image-driven design, ever-bolder mills, and a customer base that wants it all. It’s a bit schizophrenic, really: clients want lightness but then complain about fragility. As a result, jackets wear out quickly at the cuffs, elbows, and around the pockets. Wool will also start to shine (that is, develop a glossy finish) rather quickly. A properly constructed suit in a heavier fabric—say 370 to 400 grams—will retain a sharp drape for many years.

As for trousers, they tend to wear out at the crotch. Again, this isn’t entirely the fault of brands or mills—clients often demand ultra-slim trousers. But I’ll say it again: this doesn’t work with wool. When fibers are under tension, heated by friction between the thighs, they break down much faster—especially when the cut is narrow. Many clients ask for the slimmest possible fit. The consequence? A shorter lifespan.

When it comes to cleaning, avoid washing tailored trousers at home. Even the gentlest cycle can damage the inner construction of the waistband, which simply isn’t made to withstand that kind of treatment. A chino? Sure—it’s built to take the tumble. But dress trousers? Absolutely not.

For light weekly touch-ups, your household iron will do the trick. A good, slightly heavy model with solid steam output is ideal. Set it to the wool setting with full steam, and you’re good to go. To avoid adding unwanted shine to your fabric, invest in a Teflon soleplate—a simple add-on that makes a big difference. This method smooths out wrinkles, but won’t give you crisp creases.

For that, you’ll need to go old-school with a press cloth method. Take a clean kitchen towel, lay it flat over the fabric, and moisten it slightly with a ring of water. Then press down with a dry iron—no steam, no movement. Let the steam infuse naturally. Lift the iron after 15 to 20 seconds (or once the moisture is gone). Repeat the process section by section. It’s time-consuming, but the result is well worth the effort.

As for jackets, don’t attempt pressing them at home. A touch of steam now and then won’t hurt, but there’s always the risk of causing shine—especially on the sleeves and lapels. Once a year at the dry cleaner is more than enough for the jacket. For trousers, every two to three months is generally fine, depending on wear. If you’re wearing the suit once a week, that’s every 8 to 12 wears—reasonable. If you only own two or three suits, consider ordering a second pair of trousers with each.

And no, not all dry cleaners are bad. You don’t always have to request a full cleaning—you can just ask for pressing. The real challenge is knowing which cleaners to trust. A good test? Take a jacket for pressing only. If they flatten the entire lapel, it’s a red flag. A skilled presser will only press the upper third, leaving the rest to roll naturally—as it should.

As for dry cleaning itself, the perchloroethylene used in the process can actually revive the luster of wool, so it’s not something to avoid entirely. That said, don’t dry-clean raw, untreated wools like tweed. It strips the fabric of its natural oils—the suint—which are essential for breathability and thermal comfort.

Now you know everything. Or almost.

Many clients ask me how long a garment should last, and what’s the best way to care for it. Let’s try to bring some clarity to the matter.

First off, jackets and trousers don’t wear out at the same pace. I always recommend having at least one suit per workday—or, ideally, three suits, one blazer, and a sport jacket to rotate pieces more easily. It’s no coincidence that the well-off rarely wear out their clothes: they simply have more of them. In the evening, it’s best to take off your suit and slip into something more casual, like chinos. This helps preserve your trousers from daily wear. The suit should go back on its hanger—a proper, wide hanger, sized to support the shoulders correctly. Always empty the pockets. Now and then, a quick brushing will do. Personally, I fold my trousers over the hanger bar, carefully lining up the creases. You can also hang them by the hems or place them in a trouser press. I have one on my valet stand—non-heated—it’s decent, but not life-changing.

Now, suits wear out for several reasons. One of the main culprits? Fabrics that are too lightweight. The so-called Kleenex suits. It’s not entirely the brands’ fault—they’re buying their cloth from mills. But brands are caught in a bind, pressured between image-driven design, ever-bolder mills, and a customer base that wants it all. It’s a bit schizophrenic, really: clients want lightness but then complain about fragility. As a result, jackets wear out quickly at the cuffs, elbows, and around the pockets. Wool will also start to shine (that is, develop a glossy finish) rather quickly. A properly constructed suit in a heavier fabric—say 370 to 400 grams—will retain a sharp drape for many years.

As for trousers, they tend to wear out at the crotch. Again, this isn’t entirely the fault of brands or mills—clients often demand ultra-slim trousers. But I’ll say it again: this doesn’t work with wool. When fibers are under tension, heated by friction between the thighs, they break down much faster—especially when the cut is narrow. Many clients ask for the slimmest possible fit. The consequence? A shorter lifespan.

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