Name: Du fil au crayon: Carnet de dessins annotés - Tome II | Scavini
SKU: EDI/LIV/JULIEN02
Price: 19.50 EUR
Availability: InStock

Du fil au crayon: Carnet de dessins annotés – Tome II

EDI/LIV/JULIEN02

19,50 €

Julien Scavini created the Stiff Collar blog in 2009, when he entered tailoring school. At first, it was meant to recount, day by day, the delicate learning process of this manual craft. Gradually, the weekly posts also began to decode the customs and traditions associated with men’s classic suits and clothing. How can one recognize a well-made suit? What exactly is a tuxedo? When should one wear black shoes?

From the very beginning, and in each column, Julien has made a point of illustrating his words himself, using his signature clear-line figure! This second notebook is an annotated compilation of the best sketches.

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Altered pants cannot be taken back or exchanged.

Understanding alterations

There is no such thing as good clothes without good alterations

Of course, it’s possible to have a perfect body and for our pants to fit right the first time. That’s lucky. But sometimes, a little something well sewn up allows us to be totally comfortable. Maybe it’s the waistband, to gain a bit of ease or to get a good fit. It can be a thigh to tighten a little to avoid any floating. Finally, it could be a stocking to be made thinner to be totally in phase with the times.

This little guide is made for you to see more clearly.

At every street corner, in many cities, alterers and seamstresses offer their services to improve the clothes bought in ready-to-wear. You should trust them, especially since it is never that expensive. A beautiful garment can not do without their services.

The alteration service of the site

We want to offer a very good product and to satisfy you completely and correspond to the greatest number, our pants are not finished downstairs in the workshop. It is more qualitative than the pants sold already finished. Scavini Pants are very long and unfinished. Very tall men can buy our models without difficulty.

You just have to hem them

You can order an unfinished pant and an alteration specialist near you will finish it for you. You must leave the OPTION UNFINISHED in the drop-down menu.
You can order a finished pant. If you have already ordered a pair of Scavini pants and had the bottom made, then you can measure the inseam length. Simply measure along the seam from the crotch to the bottom, on the inside of the leg. This way we can make different variations for you.

Be careful, from one cut to another, this measurement may vary. Also we recommend you not to use a measure found on pants which is not of the same model as ours.

Also be careful, the order of a finish of the bottom cancels the possibility of return or exchange.

Finally, cotton tends to shrink at the first wash, so don’t hesitate to make your cotton pants a little longer at first.

Comment prendre ses mesures

Measure your inseam length

To measure your inseam, you need to take one of your pants (this does not work with jeans which have a different crotch than dress pants) and lay it flat.

Then you need to measure from the crotch seam crossing to the bottom of the pants. It is necessary to align the seam without pulling too much. The fabric is on the bias at this point, be careful, you can quickly be wrong by a centimeter or two!

You can use the size guide to know if you are in the right range.

Choose your bottom

Once you have measured the inseam, all you have to do is choose the desired alteration. The simple hem is obviously the most classic and the most versatile. For a stronger and sportier style, you can opt for a lapel. Those who want a Pitti Uomo style can dare the 5cm lapel.

And finally, for the most daring, a bottom of pants that we see less often today is the split bottom: very elegant, it allows to reduce somewhat the break of the pants and to let it rest elegantly on the shoe.

Les retouches possibles à la boutique et chez votre retoucheur

Waistband alterations

If you feel that the model is a little loose in the waistband, or on the contrary too tight and the belly is tight, you can make the waistband of the pants narrower or wider.

To do this, the alterationist will sew the back of the pants, more or less.

It is important to know that good manufacturers leave extra material to enlarge.

Touching up the width at the bottom

If you find that your pants are too wide at the bottom, it is possible to narrow the width. The retoucher will then sew a little on each side of the leg.

This alteration is done from the knee upwards and is not touched.

Touching up the width of the leg, from bottom to top

If you find that the knee floats a little, as well as the bottom, it is possible to have the whole leg retouched by a retoucher. This alteration must be done with care so as not to alter the cut.

Be careful though, the ease at the knees is important when you sit and move.

Touching up the back of the thigh, to tighten or enlarge

If you find that the thigh floats a little, it is possible to retouch it. The retoucher will intervene from the inside of the thigh.

On the other hand, if you feel tight when you are sitting, the pants can be loosened and the thigh can be made a few centimeters larger.

Releasing the crotch

If you feel discomfort in the crotch, if you feel that the pants bother you when you are sitting, it is possible to release the fork. This is called releasing the tip.

Nobody is perfect and everyone has their own taste

We hope that this guide will allow you to customize our models. Know that a good ready-to-wear garment can always be altered. You should not be afraid to correct standard models. Don’t hesitate to consult your local alteration shop, they always know how to do it. A pair of pants is not difficult to alter!

Need help or advice ?

A chat and help center are at your disposal.

Shipping

Free shipping on orders over 150€ in the EU.
Free shipping on worldwide orders starting 350€.

Returns & exchanges

14 days after reception.