S1/ Fit Cut – Tropical High-twist Wool Pants

Wool is thermoregulatory, which means that it adapts to the seasons. It can be dense and felted in winter like flannel, or on the contrary open and airy in summer. It is then called “cool wool” or “tropical worsted”. The weaving structure is made in such a way that the threads are spaced out, thus allowing air to pass.

This was referred to as “aérifère” in french in the 1950s. In addition, to keep the structure of the fabric, and a perfect shape, the threads must be adapted. They are spun so as to be twisted, that is to say, nervous and little crumpled. The English speak of “high-twist”, giving a “wrinkle-free” quality. Thus, with wool, a natural material that is timeless and millennia old, it is possible to create pants that are suitable for the modern age.

The V.B.C. brand is probably one of the best-known in the tailoring world. It is synonymous with quality and durability. A traditional house that seeks to do well, affordable luxury. A small document dated 1663 marks the beginning of the wool adventure of the Barberis Canonico family. It describes the sale of cloth to the Duke of Savoy and the skills of a dyer. This ancient date makes the draper one of the oldest companies in the world still in operation.

As such, V.B.C. is part of the very select Henokiens Club. Taking advantage of the industrial revolution, the family developed the wool business. When the first mechanical looms arrived in 1868, all weaving, dyeing, brushing, and finishing activities were concentrated in the Pratrivero factory. The arrival of electricity made it possible to speed up production rates and improve regularity.

Thanks to the high quality of the fabrics it produces, the company begins to successfully export worldwide, not only to Europe but also to America, the British Raj, and even China. It was in 1936 that the Vitale Barberis Canonico brand appeared. If the 1970s questioned the use of natural materials, the family made a choice to stay on these fundamentals, a bet that has succeeded for the company. Vitale Barberis Canonico remains true to its origins.

A pair of trousers is not just fabric. It also includes a belt lining, pocket linings, and buttons. And they are all Italian!

The belt lining consists of three layered fabrics. The upper band is made of Oxford cotton, and the lower band is made of undyed ecru cotton, separated by an embroidered anti-slip piping by Scavini. The pocket linings are cut from the same undyed ecru cotton. The absence of dye is the best option from a hypoallergenic perspective. It also allows for a discreet appearance of the pocket linings behind the light-colored fabrics. The belt lining and pocket linings are pre-manufactured by the Italian company FVL, founded in 1990, ensuring ISO and GOTS-certified quality standards. FVL is particularly committed to sustainability and ethical and social protocols, with continuous control of production processes and a fast and efficient traceability system.

As for the buttons, we don’t go far either, still in the Veneto region. We chose to exclusively use corozo buttons, also known as vegetable ivory, which is natural and biodegradable. Corozo is the hard, white albumen found in the seed of a tropical American palm tree. Bottonificio Padano, established in 1982, aims for the elimination of chemical pollutants and the use of increasingly natural pigments. Since 1982, all water used in production, including dyeing and tumbling, is purified and reused in a “closed loop” system, without any discharge into the environment.

Our development is accompanied by a great awareness of quality, while favoring local production, we have directed our research in Italy during the year 2021. After many months, we found a small traditional workshop south of Naples that is a blessing.

Our genius craftsman created his workshop at the age of eighteen, in the year 2000. Before that, his parents had also had their own trouser workshop. His only limitations were the space and the recruitment of seamstresses. Apart from that, what finesse, everything is possible! With our new workshop, we develop our volumes and bring a great craft aesthetic. We can work in-depth on models and details, far from the large industrial platforms.

A close collaboration that allows us – it’s very nice – to go to Italy from time to time and come back with a head full of new ideas. The keywords of a Scavini pant are now refinement, craftsmanship & localism. A very luxurious pant, cut from Italian or English fabric. The equivalent of the models of great luxury brands.