The use of tweed became widespread at the end of the Victorian era in England for the practice of old sports (such as hunting) or new ones (such as cycling or golf). Good society appreciated tweed for its country spirit and rusticity, as opposed to the smoother, more formal fabrics used for city clothes like the morning coat or the frac.

Tweed was strong, warm and durable because it was woven from very strong woolen spun. Many regions of northern Europe produced tweeds of various qualities: Harris tweed in the north of Scotland, Shetland tweed in the islands of the same name, Donegal tweed with speckled effects in Ireland, softer Saxony tweed in Germany, etc… Therefore, tweed is not material (like wool or cotton) nor a way of weaving (like flannel or velvet). It is in fact a word that designates a rather rustic fabric (wool, wool & cashmere, why not lambswool) woven in canvas or herringbone, plain or checked.

At Scavini, we classify fabrics that fit this description as tweed. Tweed is a rustic and warm spirit for winter. A fabric with a character that smells like walks in the woods and fishing parties. Very pleasant in the city too, as a complement to a Barbour.

The weaver of this beautiful fabric is Schofield & Smith, Manufacturers of fine worsteds since 1904. Located in Huddersfield, in the heart of Yorkshire, the region of fine English wool, Schofield is best known to the tailors of Savile Row, whom it supplies with high-grade cloth for made-to-measure suits. At Scavini, we take great pleasure in delivering fabrics of this quality, which is uncommon for ready-to-wear. The resulting pants have the aesthetic of a tailor’s sewing.

The manufacturing of complex models not being possible with our former provider in Romania, we looked for a workshop in Portugal to develop our Gurkha and Fishtail models. This small artisanal structure founded and directed by a Franco-Portuguese textile baron gave us carte blanche to design qualitative and challenging products, with small series. The thirty or so seamstresses of this workshop perform wonderfully and for us, it is a real pleasure to be flexible and reactive. This relative proximity allows us to reduce our carbon footprint while producing locally.

Dry cleaning is highly recommended for the wool product. However, it should not be done often: only once a year, or even less! A simple steam ironing at home or at the dry cleaner’s is enough in most cases to remove odors, and bacteria and to give the jacket a good look.